The month is late June, and I'm driving fast down an empty section of Highway 150 in the high desert of southern Colorado. The Sangre de Cristo Mountains tower above this agricultural area about three and a half hours west of Denver. The San Luis Valley is a fascinating place. Specifically, I'm going to Zapata Ranch.
I had been a fan of the ranch's Instagram for quite some time, primarily due to octordle the stunning images of the area's fauna, especially the bison, and the stylish garb worn by the wranglers. And, much like my drive along California's Highway 1, I'd arrived at a place of quiet reflection and reflection on my life.
After my mother passed away a few months prior, I developed a severe case of the blues and sought out an intimate experience with nature to help me heal. The Cristo range held a special place in my mother's heart, and she was a huge equestrian, so it only made sense for me to come visit. The American West called, not just because of the laid-back, retro vibe it evoked but also because of the region's low-tech, don't-watch-the-clock culture.
The Nature Conservancy owns and Ranchlands manages the over 100,000-acre Zapata Ranch, home to 2,000 wandering wild bison, 300 cattle, and a herd of working horses. (A few hours to the north of Ranchlands is the 87,000-acre Chico Basin Ranch, where visitors may attempt branding, welding, and mending fences while learning about modern ranching techniques.)
Upon pulling up, I was impressed by the hotel's austerity. It only had 15 rooms. The main house, an old homesteader from the 1800s, was a great fit for the rugged natural environment it was in. A cozy sitting area with plush seating, well-used field guides, and braided rugs adorned the walls. Chico Basin leather satchels and belts, Guatemalan palm leaf hats (the wrangler brim of choice), and organic lavender goods from Albuquerque's Los Poblanos line the walls of the outdoor mercantile, which is adjacent to the picnic tables. A tribute to the ranch's organic riches, the dining room's picture windows and long wooden tables provide the scene for a delectable meal of bison and trout (from the neighboring Arkansas River) and local fruits and vegetables from Delta and Del Norte, Colorado.
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