If you are browsing forums or YouTube looking for the cheapest way to put High Steer on your Chevy Dana 44, you’ve probably heard the "budget" recipe: "Just grab a passenger knuckle from a '70s truck at the wrecking yard, send it to a machine shop, and buy some cheap arms."
On paper, it sounds economical. In reality, it’s often a money pit.
At East West Offroad, we’ve seen countless builds stalled by cracked junkyard castings and poor machining work. Before you start scaffolding a DIY setup, let’s break down the real cost of piecing it together versus buying our (https://www.eastwestoffroad.com/product/dana-44-high-steer-crossover-knuckles-and-arms-kit).
1. The Hidden Costs of the "Junkyard" Route
The "Junkyard Special" seems cheap until you start paying the invoices.
- The Core: Finding a flat-top knuckle (usually 1973-1976 Chevy/Jeep) is getting harder. Expect to pay $75–$125 for a rusty core if you can find one.
- The Machining: You cannot drill these with a hand drill. The mounting surface must be milled perfectly flat and perpendicular to the ball joint axis. A reputable machine shop charges $150–$200 for milling, drilling, and tapping.
- Shipping: Shipping a heavy cast iron knuckle both ways to a specialist shop adds another $50+.
Total for ONE reworked old knuckle: ~$300+. The EWO Advantage: Our kit includes TWO Brand New Knuckles (Driver and Passenger) cast from superior Ductile Iron, fully machined and ready to bolt on, for a comparable price when you factor in the included arms and hardware.
2. The "Nickel and Dime" Hardware Problem
Most DIYers forget the small parts that make the system safe.
- Studs & Cones: You cannot use hardware store bolts for high steer. You need Grade 8+ studs and specific Split Conical Washers to handle the shear loads. Buying these separately often costs $60+.
- The Arms: Buying standalone billet arms can run $150–$250 per pair.
- Tie Rod Ends: If you buy arms with the wrong taper, you might be forced to buy expensive proprietary rod ends.
The EWO Advantage: Our kit is an "ecosystem." The 1.25" Billet Arms, the High-Strength Studs, the Cone Washers, and the Knuckles are engineered to fit together perfectly out of the box. No hunting for part numbers.
3. The "4-Stud" Security Factor
If you use a factory flat-top knuckle, you are typically limited to a 3-stud mounting pattern.
- The Risk: With 37-inch tires and hydraulic assist, 3 studs are a known failure point. They can stretch and shear under heavy trail abuse.
- The EWO Upgrade: Our knuckles and arms utilize a 4-Hole Style. That 4th stud adds 33% more clamping force, effectively making the steering arm a structural part of the knuckle. You cannot get this strength from a modified stock knuckle.
4. Time is Money: The "Weekend" Install
The biggest cost of DIY is Time.
- DIY Route: Weeks of searching for parts, waiting on machine shops, and chasing down the right studs.
- EWO Route: You order the kit. It arrives. You spend one Saturday afternoon bolting it on. You are back on the trail the next day.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q: Can I use my stock tie rod with this kit?
A: No. High steer moves the tie rod from the bottom of the knuckle to the top. This requires a new, longer tie rod tube. However, our knuckles feature a "Bottom Down" taper in the stock location, so you could run the stock tie rod temporarily while you fabricate your high steer linkage.
Q: Why are EWO arms 1.25" thick?
A: Many competitors use 1" or even 3/4" arms. We found that under the stress of rock crawling, thinner arms deflect (bend slightly). This movement loosens the nuts. Our 1.25" thick domestic billet arms are rigid enough to prevent this deflection, keeping your hardware tight and safe.
Q: Do I need to ream the knuckles or arms?
A: No. Our components come pre-machined with the correct tapers.
- Knuckles: Standard Chevy Taper (Bottom Down).
- Arms: Tapered for GM 1-Ton Tie Rod Ends (ES2010L / ES2234R).
Q: Does this kit fix "Death Wobble"?
A: While "Death Wobble" is often caused by loose track bars or ball joints, poor steering geometry (steep drag link angles) triggers it. By converting to Crossover Steering with our kit, you flatten the drag link angle, removing the primary trigger for steering oscillation on lifted trucks.
Conclusion
Don't spend weeks and hundreds of dollars trying to resurrect 50-year-old cast iron. Invest in new metallurgy, modern engineering, and American manufacturing. Buy the kit that pays for itself in durability.
👉 (https://www.eastwestoffroad.com/product/dana-44-high-steer-crossover-knuckles-and-arms-kit)
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